Brows and lashes
How to map and fill brows for your face, which brow product suits your hair, how to apply mascara without clumps, and safe habits for lash curlers, falsies and tinting.
Brows frame the face and lashes open up the eyes. Small changes in either can make a bigger difference than a full face of makeup. The goal is to work with your natural shape, not to copy a trend that fights it.
Mapping your brows
A simple three-point guide helps you find where your brows naturally want to start, arch and end. Hold a brush or pencil against your face as a straight edge:
| Point | Line from | Where it lands |
|---|---|---|
| Start | Side of the nostril, straight up | Where the brow begins |
| Arch | Side of the nostril through the outer edge of the iris (looking straight ahead) | Highest point of the brow |
| End | Side of the nostril to the outer corner of the eye | Where the tail finishes |
Treat this as a starting point. Faces are not perfectly symmetrical, and that is normal; aim for "sisters, not twins."
Choosing a brow product
| Product | Best for | Finish |
|---|---|---|
| Fine pencil | Drawing hair-like strokes in sparse areas | Natural |
| Powder | Soft, filled-in look; oily skin | Soft and diffused |
| Pomade | Defined, longer-wearing brows | Bold |
| Tinted gel | Holding hairs in place with a hint of color | Natural, groomed |
| Clear gel or soap-style brow products | Brushed-up, fluffy brows | Textured |
Shade: for dark hair, many people go one shade lighter than their hair; for light hair, one to two shades darker. Cooler, ashy tones usually look more natural than warm red tones.
Filling brows step by step
- Brush brows up and out with a spoolie.
- Lightly outline the bottom edge from the arch to the tail.
- Fill gaps with short, upward, hair-like strokes, lighter at the front.
- Make the tail the most defined part.
- Blend the front with the spoolie so it is soft.
- Set with gel.
Mascara without clumps
- Curl first, if you curl, before mascara. Clamp gently at the base for a few seconds, then move along the lash.
- Wipe excess product off the wand on the tube opening.
- Wiggle at the root and sweep upward to the tips.
- Build in thin coats while still slightly wet; layering on dry mascara causes clumps.
- Use the tip of the wand for lower lashes and inner corners.
Safety habits
Do not share mascara or eye products, and replace mascara about every three months, or sooner if it smells or causes irritation. Stop using any eye product that makes your eyes red or itchy.
- False lashes: use a small amount of lash glue along the band, wait for it to get tacky, and remove gently at night. Avoid glue if you are sensitive to it.
- Lash and brow tinting: the US FDA has not approved any color additives for permanent dyeing or tinting of eyelashes and eyebrows, and it warns these dyes can cause serious eye injuries. Talk to a professional and your eye doctor about the risks.
- Lash serums: some contain ingredients related to prescription eye medicines and can cause side effects such as irritation or darkening of the eyelid skin. Read labels carefully.
Brow grooming
Trim only the hairs that hang well below the brow line after brushing up. Tweeze stray hairs below the brow one at a time in good light, stepping back to check often. Over-plucked brows can take months to grow back, and some may not return, so go slowly.
For definition that frames your lashes, pair this guide with eyeliner.