Eyeliner, from smudged to the sharp wing
Pencil, gel and liquid liners compared, how to tightline and smudge, a step-by-step winged liner method and how to adapt liner to your eye shape.
Eyeliner defines the eyes more than any other single product. It can be almost invisible, like a tightline that makes lashes look thicker, or a bold graphic wing. The skills build on each other, so start simple and work up.
Types of liner
| Liner | Best for | Difficulty |
|---|---|---|
| Kohl or soft pencil | Smudgy, smoky looks, waterline | Easy |
| Gel pencil | Long-wearing, smooth lines | Easy to medium |
| Gel pot with angled brush | Precise lines and wings | Medium |
| Felt-tip liquid pen | Sharp, controlled wings | Medium |
| Brush-tip liquid | Very fine, crisp lines | Hard |
| Eyeshadow on a damp angled brush | Soft definition, fixing mistakes | Easy |
Three beginner-friendly looks
1. Tightline. Gently lift the upper lid and press a waterproof pencil into the upper lash line, between the lashes. It makes lashes look fuller without visible liner.
2. Smudged liner. Draw a line close to the upper lashes, then blur it with a small pencil brush or a matching eyeshadow. Mistakes disappear in the smudge.
3. Thin defined line. Use a felt-tip pen and draw in short dashes along the lash line, then connect them. Keep it thinnest at the inner corner.
The winged liner method
- Find the angle. Look straight ahead. Imagine a line from the outer edge of your nostril through the outer corner of your eye. Your wing follows that line upward.
- Draw the flick. From the outer corner, draw a short line along that angle. Start short; you can extend it.
- Connect to the lid. Draw from the tip of the flick back to the upper lash line, about a third of the way in, forming a triangle.
- Line the lash line from the inner corner to meet the triangle, thin at first and thicker toward the outer edge.
- Fill in the triangle.
- Clean up with a flat brush or cotton swab dipped in micellar water or concealer.
Use the same steps on both eyes before perfecting either, so you can match them as you go.
Adapting to your eye shape
| Eye shape | Tips |
|---|---|
| Hooded lids | Draw the wing with eyes open, looking straight ahead, so it is visible; a "bat wing" that looks odd closed may look right open |
| Monolids | Thicker liner shows above the crease-free lid; try a gradual, thicker line toward the outer edge |
| Downturned eyes | Angle the wing upward and keep liner off the outer lower lash line |
| Round eyes | Extend the line outward to elongate |
| Close-set eyes | Keep the inner corner thin or bare and emphasize the outer third |
Safety and hygiene
Lining the inner waterline sits very close to the eye's oil glands. Use products labeled safe for eye use, sharpen pencils regularly, never share eye products, and remove liner gently every night. If you get eye redness, pain or vision changes, stop using the product and see a doctor.
- Replace liquid liners every few months, as with mascara.
- Do not apply liner in a moving vehicle.
- Avoid glitter products not intended for the eye area.
Removing liner
Use an oil-based or bi-phase remover on a cotton pad. Hold it on the closed eye for a few seconds, then wipe gently outward without dragging. See the brows and lashes guide for mascara removal, too.
Practice wings on the back of your hand or on paper first. Muscle memory comes quickly.